Earthquake Test- Building Better Homes -- Improving Structural Engineering with Earthquake Simulator

Improving Structural Engineering with Earthquake Simulator January 1, 2007 — To develop designs that can survive extreme seismic events, and to devise retrofit solutions for older homes, civil engineers who specialize in structural design test realistic models of homes in earthquake simulators. They place the homes on two adjacent shake tables designed to move in three directions, creating realistic earthquake motions. Cameras and accelerometers measure the rate of movement. BUFFALO, NY -- Homes are made to withstand the test of time. But the ultimate test is one that can survive a large-scale earthquake. And simulating an earthquake in a lab helps improve homes in real quake zones. Most people don't ever want to experience an earthquake. "I experienced a very strong earthquake in 1997 in Athens," Ioannis Christovasilis, an Earthquake Structures Graduate Student at University at Buffalo in NY, tells DBIS. "I was a little bit frightened, yes." University at Buffalo Structural Engineer Andre Filiatrault says, "We had an aftershock, maybe a magnitude five ... That was pretty dicey. You felt the shaking work up." But today, Filiatrault is eager to watch an earthquake simulator shake this house to a magnitude 6.7 quake. The full-scale, fully furnished home is built like many in earthquake zones, but prone to damage. The test shows how much shaking a wood home can endure. Filiatrault says, "We shook this building past its so-called design level. We shook it to an extreme event ...

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Building Permits and Inspections

Probably the most intimidating part of building your own house is the permit process. Not only do the the requirements vary from township to township, but at times the decisions made seem so subjective that we find ourselves seething in frustration. However, permits and inspections are a necessary step, and they are in place predominately for your protection. Ask any earthquake victim in Iran. Because I am concerned here with new construction, I won't go into the permits required for renovation; that's another story.

In a new development, the buyer usually doesn't have to think about permits; the builder takes care of all the details. With independent projects, you may end up engaging a contractor who hires all the sub-contractors and takes care of the permits. This makes life infinitely easier for the buyer, but you'll pay for that convenience. In rural areas, because township officials are usually volunteers, they tend to work only one or two hours a week, and often after five o'clock. If you miss their time, you'll probably have to wait another week. This could run your builder ragged and cause unwelcome delays.

If you decide to get the permits yourself, the first thing you want to do is go to the township office and acquire their Code Requirements for Single Family Dwellings, and also their Building Permit Requirement Checklist (or whatever they call these documents). The Code Requirements will cover everything from smoke detectors to egress windows, from stair requirements to insulation, from foundations to chimneys and anything in between. It wouldn't hurt to send a copy to your log home manufacturer, just in case. The Building Permit checklist, though more simply worded, will be the most important document to familiarize yourself with. If even one of these items are unchecked, you won't get that permit that day!

Once you start the process, you come to realize that the Construction Permit is the most important, the most sought-after, the most critical objective in your immediate scope. Without it, you cannot even break ground. Since everything ties together, the township wants to make sure you have your "ducks in a row" before they "permit" you to start. There will usually be a one-year time limit to the permit, or a six-month time limit if construction is stopped in the middle. You should budget about $1500-$2000 for your average building permit, unless there unusual circumstances attached to your project (wetlands delineation, variances, etc.).

Because every township is different, I'll limit myself to my own building project, which took place in rural NJ. We chose to sign up as Homeowner Builder, which the owners can opt to do if they are going to live in their own house. We were technically responsible for getting the permits and the subs (although we hired a contractor who hired most of the subs for us). This meant that we had to climb a steep learning curve to understand all the components of the project.

Here is what we had to acquire to qualify for the building permit:

TAX CERTIFICATION: This document came from the township, and verified that not only did we own this piece of land, we were up to date with our property tax payments.

TWO SETS OF SEALED BUILDING PLANS: We learned very quickly how important this was. What they wanted was an Architect's or Building Engineer's stamp on the plans that came from the log home manufacturer. Do not assume that the plans will come pre-stamped. Not all manufacturers have the ability to apply a seal from every state. Our plans were not sealed, and we had to scramble around and find someone willing to stamp someone else's plans. This is not an easy task, because most architects do not want to take on that responsibility. This snag set our project back two months.

Included in the building plan will probably be a separate foundation plan, since most log homes do not provide a foundation as part of the building. If there is a separate foundation plan, it too will need to be stamped by a qualified engineer or architect.

SIGNED, SEALED ELECTRIC PERMIT APPLICATION: Don't expect the log home manufacturer to provide electrical drawings. Once you hire an electrician, you'll have to sit down with him and determine where you are putting your outlets, light switches and fixtures. Local code will determine how close together your outlets will go. Do yourself a favor and put in many more outlets than you think you will need; retrofitting could be unsightly. Also, plan on twice as many light fixtures than a standard home - wood sucks up light like a sponge. While you are at it, it helps to include your cable wires, phone wires and CAT5 in every room, even though you may not think you'll need it. Once you move into the house, you may change a room's usage from your original conception - we did, and regretted our shortsightedness.

SIGNED, SEALED PLUMBING PERMIT APPLICATION: This is another set of drawings that will not come from the log home manufacturer. You and the plumber must figure out where the fixtures are going, and if you live in the country remember that the plumbing needs to hook into your septic. (This permit is separate from the septic design permit).

APPROVED COUNTY SEPTIC DESIGN: The septic design came from the local civil engineer. The permit application came from the township, but the septic approval came from the county.

HVAC DIAGRAM showing where your ductwork is going.

DRIVEWAY PERMIT: In our case, this came from the Director of Public Works. We had to make provision for a pipe to be installed beneath a 24' paved apron at the end of the driveway. This allowed the water runoff unimpeded access to the stream down the block.

STATE WELL PERMIT and TOWNSHIP WELL PERMIT if you are digging your own well. If there is a drought going on, they might put a hold on new well permits, which will put a hold on the whole project. So get it as quickly as possible.

PLOT PLAN AND ZONING APPROVAL: the Plot Plan will come from the local civil engineer. This is not the same as a survey, which will be required by the mortgage company. The plot plan shows the location of the house, driveway, well and septic as well as the perimeter of the building envelope.

WATER TABLE INVESTIGATION REPORT: this will help you determine whether you can dig a basement, or do you need to raise the house up?

These are the big ones. You might have local wetland delineation issues, easements, or setbacks to worry about. Once you get that Construction Permit, treat yourself to a celebratory dinner. You'll have earned it!

The Construction Permit needs to be prominently displayed on the job site. You also need to keep one of those sealed sets of building plans on site at all times, just in case you get a surprise visit from an inspector. Hopefully by now you will have made friends with the township inspector, because he's going to have a big say in the ease or difficulty of your project. The inspections are all spelled out and will be required at each step in the process before you can move on. This could cause a delay of one to several days (not counting bad weather), so think ahead - but not too far ahead.

The first inspection will come pretty quick. When your excavator digs the hole for your foundation, the township may inspect the bottom of the footing trenches before placement of footings. If you are using a Superior Walls precast foundation system, there will be no footings so this inspection will be unnecessary. However, the footings for your deck and porches will need to be inspected.

There will be a foundation inspection before the backfill is shoveled in. The big inspection will be the framing inspection. This must be done before the insulation is added. Then, there will be an inspection for the plumbing, the electrical panel and wiring, the septic or sewer service, then insulation. At the end of the project, there will be a final inspection before issuance of a Certificate of Occupancy; the inspector will look at the finishing work, the smoke detectors, fixtures, etc. There may be other inspections in between, depending on the township.

Unless you are acting as your own general contractor, inspections should not concern you, except that if something fails the whole project grinds to a halt. If you are the Homeowner Builder, you will probably be arranging the inspections yourself, and it helps to know what the township is looking for.

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The Cost of Building a House in Cyprus

Building a house nowadays, is a decision which entails heavy costs, problems relating to finance and construction, delays in delivery and quality problems, titles, delays on building permits etc. Building a house is an investment decision, which should be studied carefully, as most families built a house once in their lifetime and the final decision in most cases can be irreversible. Below are some general guidelines, which could help the owner to assess the cost of building a house, since small items, which could build up the cost of the house, are usually ignored.

Cost of building plot

Prior to the commencement of construction of your own home, at least the plot should be, or nearly be paid. This will certainly give you an advantage with the financing of the building cost for the house and it is a prerequisite for all financiers. For the transfer of ownership of the plot a Governmental transfer fee of 7%-8% (on average) is required on the market value (not necessarily what you paid for) of the plot.

Cost of the Mortgage & Finance

To register a mortgage, a fee will be paid to the Land Registry Office of about 1% on the Mortgage amount. Normally the mortgage amount is the actual loan %2B 20% on top. You will have to pay the stamp duties and other Bank expenses, which could take the form of once and for all Bank charge (say, on average CYP1000). If you borrow from a bank there is an additional charge of approximately 1.5%-2.0% p.a. on top of the legal base rate of 4.5%. There are now many alternative housing schemes including Life Insurance finance, Co-Op financing etc which extend for 25-40 years and own contribution approximately 20% (usually through term life insurance).

Cost of Architectural Drawings

It is imperative to use a qualified Architectural Office which will have the responsibility for the work done. You should not compromise on this, since the Architect is the most important person in the whole process of building your house. Yes, go to different offices and do discuss fee levels and then make your decision, but always use a qualified architect. Rates are normally around 5% on the total cost of the building and includes the design and supervision. Some architects go up to around 6%-8%.

You will also need to employ a Civil Engineer to carry out the structural design. This cost, with supervision is approximately 1% on the cost of the building.

The cost of the building referred to, includes all items, but not the fees paid to the Authorities and decorative items. So please clear the matter with the Architect, Engineer, etc., what is included is the total building cost.

Cost of Building Licence

The Town Planning Department charges for the issue of the licence will cost you around £300 and for the building licence an added amount of £150-£200.

Cost of the Quantity Surveyor & M/E Engineer

If you wish to engage a Quantity Surveyor for the building, a fee of 1% of the total building cost is required. The cost for a mechanical engineer (for large buildings) is approximately 3%-5% on the cost of the Electrical and Mechanical Budget. Although the use of the above is optional, it is recommended for large and complicated buildings.

Cost of the building

Below you will find a guide of the building costs:

Normal quality house

CYP500 per sq. meter for the covered area

CYP150 per sq. meter for the uncovered veranda

CYP250 per sq. meter for the basement

Good quality house

CYP550-CYP650 per sq. meter for covered area (depending on quality/facilities)

CYP180 per sq. meter for uncovered area

Plus the cost of a garage (£3000), water borehole (£1500), fencing and garden (£3500-£4500) for normal plots sizes.

Costs to other Authorities

Extra costs have to be paid for connection to the Water Board, Electricity, Telephone and Land registry Office (demarcation, issue of title etc) estimated at about £1000 in total.

-Total cost/sq.m. for a (250 sq.m.) house
-House 250 sq.m. @ £550/sq.m. £138.500
-Fees and Licences £9.000
-Interest on Loan (say) £6.000
-Other Authorities £1.500
-Garden etc. £3.000
-Sundry other expenses £4.000
-Total cost £162.000 or (£745/sq.m.)
-on top add 15% V.A.T.

The purchase of equipment and installation cost of central heating is an addition and costs approximately £20/sq.m. and for the airconditioning system, an additional amount of approximately £40/sq.m.

A large number of people act as their own contractors for the building and subcontract all the various jobs and supplies of the work. Where the owner is able and with sufficient knowledge and has the time to carry out the supply and coordinating function, there could be a possible saving of 8-10% on total cost. Going further, if "weekend housing" is put into effect (whereby all the family and friends offer themselves as labourers, skilled and unskilled) then the cost can be reduced by 12%-15%. Obviously, in both cases there is the strong danger that the quality will suffer and the time of completion extended.

In recent years, with the introduction of VAT and the increase in labour costs, we have experienced an increase of 7-10% per year, in building cost, a level which is higher than inflation. This has made the building of a house that much more difficult. A house can take approximately 18 months to be completed.

A last item that can cost between 5%-8% in addition, is the right of the Contractor to ask for increase in labour costs and materials prices during the period of construction. Therefore a certain amount for unforeseen costs should be included in the final costing.

Unfortunately in Cyprus we have not reached any stage of prefabrication, whereby sections of the house, windows, doors, kitchens, etc., are prefabricated so that there is a reduction in costs. Also the shortage of skilled labour has created a certain indifference to the quality produced and should always be watched.

The problems related to the building of a house and the related delays have caused the market to direct its interest towards ready houses (a circumstance which did not exist 7-9 years ago). We expect this trend to continue with a positive effect on the value of ready homes.

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How to Build a Home - Lesson 2 - The Building Lot - Part VI - Due Diligence

What To Do After The Contract To Purchase Is Accepted

1. Utility line right-of-ways

Contact the company that owns the pipeline or power line crossing the property and find out what you can or cannot do on their easement. Some companies, like Colonial pipeline, will fly these right-of-ways almost daily by plane or helicopter. If you start disturbing the ground on this right-of-way without their knowledge they'll shut the job down.

2. Percolation test

If you do not have access to a sewer line you will probably have a septic tank. If you have a septic tank you will perform, in conjunction with the county health department, what we call a percolation, or "perk test". Most county health departments will allow you, the owner, to do this perk test. Because of my busy schedule, I normally hire the surveyor to do it. The health department will provide you with instructions on how to do the perk test - it's simple. If you fail this perk test, it could mean you cannot have a septic tank. Make sure you've completed the perk test and the property is approved for a septic tank. If the property fails a perk test, many people think it is "unbuildable" for a home because they are of the opinion you cannot have a septic tank - not so! There are other alternatives; for example, you could use what is called an aerobic treatment unit. This system is more expensive than the conventional septic tank but it would enable you to build on what some would consider an unbuildable lot. Be sure to check with your health department because the aerobic system may or may not be approved for your area.

3. Soil test

In North Georgia we have "good ole" red clay. If you have never been to Georgia, it is truly red and a real pain to get out of clothes and carpet. However, this red clay is very stable for a foundation. There are many parts of the country and Georgia where the ground is very unstable for a foundation. In those areas where the ground may not look "just right," you may be required to do soil testing and/or engineering to properly install a foundation for a home. If you fear any problems with the soil, I recommend you call a "soil engineer". A soil engineer can test the soil and tell you whether or not it is stable enough to support your home. If it's not stable, the soil engineer can tell you what can be done to make it stable. You may also need a "structural engineer" to design the foundation for any unstable ground. You can find these engineers in the Yellow Pages under Engineer - Geothermal and Engineer - Structural. The construction of a home is basically the same throughout the country. The foundation is what changes quite a bit from one location to another because of the soil. If you install the foundation correctly, the chances of anything major happening to your home, from a structural standpoint, are very slim. You do not want a foundation problem. So check your soil and seek professional advise if the ground doesn't test well or does not look "just" right.

4. Wetlands

Wetlands can be a real and serious problem. The department that oversees and regulates wetlands is the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. The Army Corps of Engineers have mapped many wetland areas and can give you the pamphlets to help you determine if your property contains any wetlands. What's confusing are those areas that look high and dry that are designated wetlands. If you unknowingly build in these areas, they can shut down the construction of your home because it's illegal to disturb a wetland environment. If you have any doubts, check with the Army Corps of Engineers and find out if there could a problem. To learn more about the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, visit their web site.

5. Flood plain

A flood plain is another type of land area designated and regulated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. The Corps of Engineers will designate an elevation point called the "100-Year Flood Plain Mark." In theory, only once in 100 years would there be a floor where the water level would go above this elevation point. Your surveyor can indicate this 100-Year mark on your survey. Most cities and counties will not let you build in an area designated as a Flood Plain. In some flood plain areas you may be allowed to add fill dirt to raise the elevation of the home above the flood mark. However, in many flood areas, you may not be allowed to do this, because if there's not adequate drainage, you would accentuate the problem, if there were a flood. It's like placing a rock in a glass of water; you will raise the level of the water. I remember some property I placed under contract for a subdivision and there was a small creek on the property. I didn't think there was any problem. It turned out over half of the property was in a designated flood area. It was also the type of flood area you could not fill in. The seller was shocked; they said they had lived there for 30 years and had never seen the creek flood. If the owner was correct, he could possibly do the necessary paperwork to have his property removed from the designated flood area. For me it didn't matter - it was a dead deal. You can see these designated flood areas by acquiring copies of flood insurance rate maps [FIRM]. The easiest way to get a copy of a FIRM map, for your area, is to go to the web site for the Federal Emergency Management Agency [FEMA]. It's not unusual for part of a parcel to be in a flood plain. The problem arises when any part of the structure of the home is within the designated flood plain area. If the home is in the flood plain area, your lenders will require you to purchase flood insurance. The maximum amount available for flood insurance is $285,000.00 and the premium for flood insurance can be costly. Many lenders will not even make a loan on a home where part of the structure is in the flood plain.

6. Tributary setbacks

If there is a creek or stream on the property, even if it's not in a designated flood plain area, there could be restrictions on how close you can build to that creek or stream. These restrictions are federally mandated to minimize sediment runoff into a particular creek or stream. Check this out with you city or county building department.

7. Hydrology Study

Some homes that I build are so expensive; I treat them like a commercial job and hire an engineer to perform a "hydrology study." The hydrology study will indicate if there is going to be a water runoff problem, after the home is constructed. If there is a problem, this engineer will design a solution to the problem. The type of engineer to do this is a "civil engineer." If you ever have a problem with water drainage and you need to correct it, contact a civil engineer. You'll find them in the Yellow Pages under Engineer - Civil. Some areas of the country may require a hydrology study on every home. The Building Department of the city or county you will build in should be able to tell you. Don't let the fact that I recommend these engineers scare you. If anything, you should be afraid if no engineers are involved in the project. Don't spend a ton of money for these engineers and shop around, you will see quite a variation in price from one engineer to another. Don't be afraid to hire these engineers; I would rather you spend some money up front to find and solve a problem than spend much more money later on to solve a problem.

8. Hazardous waste and buried trash

I'm beginning to see more and more builders required to furnish a certified document stating that there is no buried trash or hazardous waste on the property. There are engineering firms in any given area that can do this testing and supply these documents if you need them.

9. Rock test

Even if you don't see any surface rock, if you have serious doubts about rock, you can hire firms to check for rock. Contact a soil engineer to find out whom to use. They can bore or dig test holes in the ground to tell you how far below the surface the rock exists. This way you'll know if you are going to have a problems installing a driveway, basement, swimming pool, sewer line or septic tank.

10. Survey

After you have the property under contract to purchase, I recommend that you go ahead and get a current (no more than 6 months old) survey by a licensed land surveyor. The survey is going to clear up a lot of potential problems. For example, the survey will show any easements on the property that you may not see with the eye. The survey will also show any areas of the property that are in a flood plain. I know people who believed their lot was 200 feet wide on the road and 2 acres in size. Their daddy even told them it was 2 acres with 200 feet on the road. They'd sell the property based on this info, only to have the new owner order a survey and find out the property is 1½ acres in size, not 2, and there is only 150 feet on the road, not 200 feet. The deal could fall through right there. If you've got an old survey, you might be able to have the original surveyor update it for as little as $50.00. If there is a subdivision plat recorded at the courthouse, find out who did the original subdivision and they may be willing to survey the lot for a cheaper fee. Remember to shop around; you will see a large variation in price from one surveyor to another. One last item, ask the surveyor to provide a legend on the survey for clarification. A person new to the industry may not understand that "IPF" at a corner of the property stands for "Iron Pin Found."

11. Topography map

The topography map or "topo" will show the contour of the land. If your property is relatively flat, you may not need to spend money for a topo. The surveyor is who we hire to do the topo. Like the survey, to get the best price you will need to shop around.

If you are designing a home for a given lot and/or working with steep or rolling terrain, a topography map will be very beneficial. The ideal topo is what we call a "2-foot topo" (as opposed to a 4-foot topo). What this means is the distance between each line represents a 2-foot drop or rise in the terrain. In the world of grading, a grade of 2% or less may have problems with drainage and a grade of 15% or more could cost you money for fill dirt, hauling away of any excess dirt, or building retaining walls. The topo map can show you if you are going to need $10,000 worth of fill dirt or a $20,000 retaining wall. These are problems you want to know before you purchase a lot. If you're in a major metropolitan area, check with the county engineering or highway department. They may have in their files a topo for the property you are interested in purchasing.

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Guide to Storage Building Kits

Whether you live in a rural, city, or suburban area storage can always become an issue. With the supply of storage building kits it is easier than ever to store your items safely and securely. These storage buildings will often come in varies shapes, sizes, colors, and styles so you can find one to fit your needs. You can get these structures in something small like 6 feet x 6 feet, or in mini storage metal building packages that go up to thousands of square footage. The smaller buildings are normally use for an everyday use on storing law care equipment, kids toys, tools, and other small items. The larger units are typically used for people in the farming or industrial field who need places to store equipments and building materials. Some of these units could even house livestock if they are properly ventilated.

Storage building kits are generally made of steel or aluminum but if you want to build one yourself, you could use your choice of material. The galvanized steel and aluminum are usually coated with enamel or vinyl to help prevent corrosion from the elements. The most popular unit would be the steel options because it is extremely durable and affordable. However, if you do not take the proper care of these units you face dealing with rust. Some supplier and manufacturer will even add a warranty for rust so you can purchase these with more confidence. The aluminum options are less likely to form rust or corrode, but they will cost you more money than the steel buildings.

The benefits to buying a metal storage building kits greatly outweigh the disadvantages. They offer cheaper building a maintenance costs, especially compared to plastic or wood storage buildings. Metal storage containers are also popular storage units for making more room in your home, office, or current storage unit. These containers are mostly portable, easy to afford, and can be found in many local retail stores. Some people even get creative with their uses by using them as concession stands at sporting game, or as a way to store sporting equipment for teams that travel. Whatever you decide to use your container or storage building for, be sure to do your research and shopping around first. There are plenty of trusted manufacturers and suppliers out there, but unfortunately there are just as many that are in it for the wrong reasons.

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